Ensure the perfect fit and silhouette
Sizing it Up By the Decades
1920s
Expect dropped, undefined waists and flat bosoms (lack of darts or shaping). If the fabric pulls across the bust, the fit is improper; a smooth look is what you’re going for. Sleeves are often very fitted, as are armholes and neck openings. Fitted is fine; tight is not. A neckline is too tight if you cannot easily slip in two fingers. You should be able to comfortably cross your arms in front or raise your hands over your head. Sleeves should not bind when you bend your elbow; if they do, they will likely tear from the stress.
1930s
Expect bias-cut clothing that molds closely to the body and hugs the hips. It can be hard to tell if a bias-cut dress is too small, but go with your instincts and the overall appearance. The fabric should skim your curves and follow your figure but not look like a second skin; if the garment bunches anywhere, it’s not a good fit. Sleeves may be narrow and armholes fitted, so move naturally to ensure they do not bind or rip. Bustlines tend to be low and waistlines may fall slightly below the natural waist. The late 1930s saw wider shoulder lines, foreshadowing the next decade’s fashions.
1940s
Wartime restrictions dictated shorter skirts, hitting just below the knee and sitting on the natural waist. Broad shoulders came into vogue as well; if the shoulder line sits comfortably and does not feel slouchy, it is a proper fit. Slacks sit high on the waist, almost above the natural waistline, and often have front pleats. The look should be smooth, with pleats lying flat, not wrinkling below the back waistband. Blouse cuffs and necklines are often fitted; you should be able to comfortably fit two fingers into the neckband and one into a buttoned cuff. Blouses and sweaters are short to the waist. Jackets and coats have full sleeve lengths, but three-quarter sleeves are sometimes seen in dresses and tops. The late ’40s saw longer skirts (sometimes nearly to the ankle) and narrower bodices. Although fitted, a bodice should not gape in front or bind across the chest.
1950s
Expect waistlines to be snug, but not too tight. Three-quarter or “bracelet” sleeves on coats, suit jackets, and dresses were stylish, showing off long gloves and wide bracelets. This look takes a little getting used to since modern sleeves tend to be cut overly long; a long-sleeved sweater or a pair of long gloves worn with a coat will pull the look together. Although the full skirt was popular, so were narrow “pencil” skirts, with just a vent or slit to allow ease of movement. You’ll know that a fitted skirt is too tight when it curves in under the derriere or shows pulling across the hips or abdomen. Tops were often cropped at the waist, and if they rise above the waistline, they’re too short for you. The exceptions are bolero-style jackets and “shrug” sweaters. Pants tend to be cropped and fitted, with high waists and flat fronts. Pants are too tight if they pull in the crotch or the fabric strains when you sit. The market offers a lot of 1950s Junior Wear (clothing made for younger women), especially the ever-popular strapless tulle or taffeta prom dress. These pieces tend to have high bustlines and a smaller ribcage.
1960s
The decade’s best-known fashion trend is the mini skirt hitting at, or just above, the knee. Even coats can be quite short. Shorter sleeve lengths are common in all manner of clothing-dresses, sweaters, blouses, jackets, and coats. As with 1950s clothing, these uncommon lengths are part of the charm. The waist line is less fitted. Empire waistlines and baby-doll looks were also popular and are commonly available.
1970s
You can expect some clothing to be very “body conscious.” Jersey and knits were popular and often close fitting; plunging necklines were also common. Polyester shirts with their whimsical prints, a classic ’70s vintage item, are usually cut really narrow in the body and sleeves. You know a shirt is too small if the buttons pull (or pop off !) and it causes gaping. Pants tend to be very high waisted, so if you’re used to wearing a low-slung pant, this style can feel strange. Belts are smaller, made to fit the waist, not the hips (where we tend to wear them today).
1980s
You can’t talk about this era’s fashion without mentioning shoulders-big shoulders. It can be hard to determine a good fit on a tailored dress or jacket from the ’80s. If the back area across the shoulder blades fits and the shoulder pads sit firmly, without slipping or moving around, the garment fits you fine. The “baggy” look was big, too. Tops and sweaters were slouchy and loose, often with dropped shoulders. Coats were roomy and almost reached the ankle. Pants were loose (but fitted at the waist). Consider an ’80s garment to be too big if it is unflattering or overwhelms you (which it will easily do if you are petite).
December 19th, 2009 at 1:13 am
Can I trust that advice? -Aunika <3
August 10th, 2010 at 11:30 pm
stunning advice. I’m going to article a link of this podcast on my blackboard internet site for my students. Every thing you said performs for discussion boards as well. Thank you !