Storing your vintage properly will help prolong its life, and the dos and don’ts are simple. First, get rid of any and all wire hangers in your closet. Return them to the dry cleaners, put them in the metal recycling bin, or make crafts out of them, but don’t use them to hang your clothing. Metal hangers will irretrievably distort the shoulder lines and can also wear through fabric. In addition, they may rust, which leaves a permanent stain. Inexpensive, thick plastic hangers are fine, and if you want to spend the extra money, padded-cloth hangers work well and look nice. For coats, shaped hangers are best; they can bear the extra weight and will help preserve the shoulder shape. Skirts and slacks do best on clamp-type hangers-not the ones with pinch grips, which can cause marks. If you do use hangers with grips, make sure the grips are plastic or velvet lined, not metal, and put a piece of cloth underneath as a cushion. Velvets and wools are especially prone to damage from these types of clips.
Some articles of vintage should not be hung at all. Beaded dresses should be wrapped in acid-free tissue and stored flat in a drawer or cloth garment bag. The weight of the glass beads will compromise the delicate fabric. I recommend storing sheer delicate items as well as lace pieces the same way. Sweaters and loose knits should not be put on hangers, which stress and stretch the shoulders; fortunately, most knits can be reshaped when washed. Hats are best stored in boxes; the vintage market abounds with authentic examples.
Cellars and attics are notorious for destroying vintage clothing and accessories. Dampness causes mildew, and hot dry air will cause dry rot. For protection against mildew, not to mention nuisance wrinkles, never put away anything (especially outerwear) that is the least bit damp. Dry it in the open away from direct heat. Keeping the moths away from your woolen, furs, and cashmere is another imperative. I often wonder how such a drab little creature can wreak so much havoc! If a moth can’t find wool, it will attack silk or even food spills on fabric. The most important thing is to keep your vintage, as well as your drawers and closet floors, clean and fresh. Once a year, at least, vacuum all clothing storage spaces. Avoid moth balls; they are extremely toxic (especially to cats) and the smell is tenacious. Sachets of lavender and clove repel moths and smell nice, too. Cedar is an age-old moth repellent. You can find cedar blocks at any hardware store, and natural-food stores sometimes carry cedar oil to refresh faded blocks. If you buy any kind of second-hand woolens, brush them off (outside!), seal them in a plastic bag, and put them in the freezer for a few days. This destroys any moth larvae or eggs.
Pressing & Mending
Pressing your vintage should be done carefully. Use the appropriate heat for the fabric, and press from the back side whenever possible. If you must iron the front of the fabric, use a press cloth to prevent scotching and “shine.” (A linen tea towel works well.) If you are lucky enough to own a good garment steamer, try to always steam from the inside and keep the head moving so that you don’t wet one area too much. Use spray starch on cotton and linen only if you plan to wear the item; for storage, skip the starch, which can yellow over time. To prevent creasing of sleeves, use a sleeve roll or roll up a thick towel and use that instead.
Check buttons periodically to make sure they are not coming loose- you would hate to lose an original vintage button. Verify whether snaps and hooks need reinforcing. You can ask your dry cleaner to do this for you. Mend small holes and tears immediately before they have a chance to grow any bigger. A stitch in time saves nine!
